We send clients to Jaisalmer regularly. This is the advice we give them — the good operators, the overrated experiences, and what the Sam Sand Dunes are actually like.
Jaisalmer is the reason many people come to Rajasthan at all. The 12th-century sandstone fort rising from the Thar Desert, the dunes at Sam, the silence of the desert at night — it is genuinely different from anything else in India. We have been sending clients here for years and we still think it is one of the most extraordinary places in the country.
But it also has more tourist traps per square kilometre than almost anywhere in Rajasthan. So here is our honest briefing.
The Sam Sand Dunes — What They Are Actually Like
Sam is 42 kilometres from Jaisalmer city on a straight desert road. The dunes themselves are genuinely spectacular — high, rolling, and in the right light (sunrise and sunset) they look exactly like the photographs you have seen. In peak season (November to February), the area gets very crowded in the late afternoon. By 4pm, there are hundreds of tourists, dozens of camels, and folk music performers lined up.
This does not ruin it — the atmosphere is lively and fun. But if you want the dunes quiet and peaceful, go at sunrise. We often arrange early morning departures from Jaisalmer so clients arrive at Sam around 6am. At that time, there are almost no other tourists. The light is extraordinary and you can walk the dunes without anyone else in your photographs.
The best dune photographs are taken from the top of the first major dune, facing west at sunset or east at sunrise. It is a 15-minute walk from the main camel area. Most tourists never make it that far.
Camel Safari — How Long and Which Type
There are two types of camel experience. A short camel ride at Sam (30 to 45 minutes, included in most day tour packages) gives you the dune experience without sleeping out. An overnight camel safari takes you deeper into the desert, 8 to 12 kilometres from Sam, and camps under the stars. This is the one we recommend to anyone who can manage it physically.
The overnight experience — arriving at camp as the sun sets, having dinner around a fire while folk musicians play, sleeping in a tent under a sky that has no light pollution for 100 kilometres in any direction — is one of the most memorable nights our clients have had anywhere in the world. We hear this back from them consistently.
- Short camel ride at Sam: 30–45 minutes, good for families with young children or elderly members
- Sunset safari with camp dinner: leave city at 3pm, return by 10pm — the most popular option
- Full overnight safari: leave afternoon, sleep in desert, return after sunrise breakfast — our recommendation for anyone who can do it
- Multi-day camel trek (2–3 days): for serious adventurers — covers remote Thar Desert villages
The Jaisalmer Fort — Still Lived In
Unlike every other fort in Rajasthan, the Jaisalmer Fort is still inhabited. Around 3,000 people live inside its walls. There are hotels, restaurants, craft shops, and temples inside. Spend at least half a day wandering it. The Patwon Ki Haveli and Salim Singh Ki Haveli outside the fort are also worth an hour each.
One thing we always mention: the fort has a water drainage problem. Heavy rains have caused some structural damage over the years. Stay on the main paths and avoid the peripheral walls, especially after rain.
What to Avoid
- Touts outside the fort offering ‘cheap desert camp’ deals — these are almost always low-quality camps with no running water
- Safari operators who promise ‘private dunes’ at Sam — Sam is a public area, there are no private dunes
- Fixed departure jeep tours from the main road — they rush you and combine 20 strangers together
- Visiting Sam between 4pm and 6pm in peak season if you dislike crowds — go earlier or go at sunrise
Best Time to Visit Jaisalmer
November to February is ideal. The days are comfortable (20–28°C), the nights are cold (3–10°C), which makes the desert camp experience genuinely atmospheric. October is also excellent — slightly warmer but far fewer tourists than December. Avoid May and June unless you have a specific reason.
Getting There
Jaisalmer has a small airport with limited flights from Delhi and Jaipur (check in advance as schedules change). By train, the overnight from Jaipur or Jodhpur is comfortable and arrives in the morning. By road, it is 5.5 hours from Jodhpur on the NH-68 — a good, straight highway through the desert. We regularly arrange road transfers for clients doing the Jodhpur–Jaisalmer leg.
We Can Arrange This For You
We have trusted camp operators in Jaisalmer we work with regularly. We know which ones maintain their camps well, which ones have good food, and which ones are right for families versus young travellers. WhatsApp us and we will match you with the right option for your group and budget.